Hi, my name Anthony from VA. I got one of the Lannoo lathe but can't seem to get it work properly. I can't seem to find a place for a boring bar. The tool post is a little inconvenient cause you have to keep screw and unscrew for tool change. Do you use a quick tool holder for tool change. I f I ask you to make a taper bar for me, how much would you charge? Sorry, if I disturbing you. Thanks in advance.
My email is : Anthony.ea10@gmail.com
I stuck with a 2 x 4 light fixture, so no cold spots or no alternating of lights. It was one of those, hey this is going to be easier, I will try it and if it doesn't work I can splice in and go. I haven't felt it was worth changing. This lighting is very good. That being said the additional width is not needed, and the end rail light could have been slightly better and this would have been achieved by having a flanged end instead of a square one. I will get some photographs and send - have an email I can send them to?

Yes it is an olhausen table with cherry stain. I tried to get the light to match, it isn't perfect but pretty decent.
Can you make a killer cocobolo and ebony sneaky like you have listed without the summit logo on it? nothing against the name, but none of my cues are marked by the cue maker on the cue, even my searing is on the weight bolt only
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Playing - Predator Roadline SP6GN + 314/2
I started reading this forum after I had issues with tips coming off when installed by the closest cue repairman to me (52 miles away) in 2008. Started doing them by hand, and decided to get a lathe in 2012. After having friends in the local league spread good word about my cleaning and re-tip jobs, it is time to do more studying on tips, ferrules, wraps, and maybe refinishing. I would like to sat thank you to all members that have shared their knowledge, and I hope to one day be in position to offer valuable insight gathered from my own trials.
Sorry I was new to this forum and someone wrote me and I thought the other peoples messages was to me and you were one of them
Hi, I'm looking to reserve the #17 Alex Brick diamond wood, if it's available--I sent you a PM (I'm not sure if it went through).
Did you alternate them like you mentioned in your post? You were aiming for a 6'x3' light, but the only way you could work it is if you went with 4' bulbs and staggered them. Then you were worried about "hot" and "cold" spots on the table. Do you experience any of that? Do you have a bigger picture of the light? The light looks good in the avatar, but its hard to see because it's so small. I can't believe you're the only person in these forums to talk about the lighting difficulties on an 8 foot table!

Edit: Looks like we have the same table. Is that an Olhausen table? Cherry stain with the bird-like foot that is latched onto a sphere?
I ended up using 4 - 4' bulbs, and raised the light high enough to get good lighting. the 2 fluorescent twin bulb ballasts put out a lot of light. You can see the light in my avatar. Cost of the light using a strained poplar frame was right about 100 - 120 bucks.
Hello......nah....didn't go out on my own. And thanks for the compliment. Tony and I had a parting of ways and although it might be nice to create some cues the cost of setting everything up would be astronomical. I quit playing for many years after Tony and I parted so I know what that's like for you. Which Black Boar did you own? Do you remember it?
I see. Im a former black boar owner and knew of you and tony by name and reputation. I stopped playing for about 7-8 years and just started playing again. Some people told me you had parted ways with tony but told me it was to go out on your own which would have absolutely made me interested. Take care. It was nice talking with you
I've been researching lighting options for an 8' table and I came across your thread where you were trying to make the same decision. Which size bulb and fixtures did you end up with? Very curious to hear your conclusion and reasoning.

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